Looking for Somewhere Off the Beaten Track? How About Keldur?

The history of Keldur

The turf farmhouse at Keldur is the oldest remaining structure of its kind anywhere in Iceland. This example of traditional Icelandic architecture follows an old passageway design, built on stone around a wooden frame and clad in pieces of turf. Like many of its kind, it blends seamlessly into the landscape. The grass reaches down to the floor on each side of the roof gables, whose timbers are painted black, and at either end of the terrace.

Historians believe the farmhouse dates back to the 12th century, though most of what you see today is from the 19th century. Some of the woodwork is much older, for example, a piece in the hallway that bears the date 1641. The farmhouse is situated close to a stream; some believe there may even be other structures hidden beneath the surface on the opposite bank, though these have yet to be uncovered.

But there’s more: the centuries-old farmhouse is thought to be linked to an underground tunnel leading down to the creek. It’s probable that the tunnel dates to around the same time as the farmhouse, or maybe slightly later, perhaps the 13th century. The reason for its existence isn’t clear, but it might be evidence of a period of upheaval and instability. 

There’s proof too of Keldur’s original inhabitant, a man called Ingjaldur Höskuldsson, as they both get a mention in Njáll's Saga. It recounts that he lived here from 974 AD until 1000 AD. You might want to pick up a copy to read for context. Keldur also crops up in other tales, such as the Sturlunga Saga and that of Saint Þorlákur. Jón Loftsson,  the chieftain of the Oddi Clan, is another notable past resident, living there until he died in 1197 AD.

Turf houses and why they were commonplace in Iceland  

The construction of turf structures can be traced back to the early days of Icelandic settlement. The country’s early inhabitants didn’t have the luxury of importing materials and had to make do with what could be found locally. With stone in short supply and, increasingly, a lack of suitable timber,  these materials had to be used sparingly when new structures were planned. Turf, however, was abundant, and its use was widespread as a consequence.

Often, such homes would have been tucked right up against a hillside to provide protection from strong winds. Typically, flat stones were used as a foundation and trees such as birch served to provide the framing timber. Turf was then cut and fitted to the frame in blocks in a similar pattern to that which elsewhere you may have seen elsewhere in the brickwork. The roof was also clad in turf. 

This material would have had an insulating effect. This would have been an attempt to deal with Iceland’s wet and windy winters using the technology of the day. Remember, back in the old days, such buildings would have been damp, dark, smoky, and poorly ventilated – and certainly unattractive dwellings by today’s standards. 

The turf homes that have been preserved today as museums are often retro-fitted with electricity, and internal doorways have sometimes been heightened, encouraging nostalgia as we look on the past with rose-tinted spectacles. When you visit, allow yourself to imagine what it once would have been like.

Visiting Keldur

Amazingly, Keldur was inhabited right up to the middle of the 20th century; after 1946, it came under the control of the National Museum of Iceland and remains so to the present day. In recent years, the farmhouse has become a formalised tourist attraction and is open to visitors through June, July and August each year. 

Outside the summer period, you’ll only be able to see the farmhouse buildings from a distance. While you’re there, be sure to take a look at the little turf house beside the stream which is a mill house. Its hydroelectric power comes from Króktúnslækur creek. Nearby, there are lamb sheds on top of what were possibly the earliest farm buildings erected at Keldur.

Getting there and away

Slotting a visit to Keldur into a south coast road trip is so straightforward you’ll wonder why relatively few tourists make it there. Midway between Hella and Hvolsvöllur, you’ll see the Hotel Ranga. Turn off the ring road opposite this hotel and follow the 264 inland. This road is tarmac for a while, and the final stretch is gravel. However, it’s possible to drive all the way to the Keldur car park in a 2WD; you won’t need to hire a 4x4 unless you want to. 

In all, it’s about an hour and 45 minutes from Reykjavik and about 45 minutes from Selfoss. If you’re continuing east along the ring road, you’ll be about half an hour away from Seljalandsfoss. Whether you have a quick look or spend more time at this fascinating historic site, we’d recommend Keldur as a worthy stop on your South Iceland self-drive tour.