Driving the Westfjords, Iceland

Driving through the remotest parts of the Westfjords feels a lot different from the busier roads of the south coast, capital region, and Golden Circle. If you're planning to explore that part of Iceland as well, don't miss our guide to the ultimate South Coast drive in Iceland.

But that difference is part of the attraction: a chance to get out on the open road and discover off-the-beaten-track attractions and overlooked destinations that are every bit as interesting as those you’ll find elsewhere in the country. Some are open only seasonally, though call ahead, and even in winter, it’s possible they’ll open up especially for you.

With the unveiling of the 950-km-long Vestfjarðaleiðin (Westfjordsway), road-tripping in this part of Iceland just got a whole lot simpler. Around a quarter of its length is gravel, but the rest is easy tarmac. From spring through until autumn, you’ll get away with one of our regular cars, though in winter, you’ll feel the benefit of upgrading to a 4x4 for extra ground clearance as well as improved grip on exposed stretches and highland roads. In this article, we’ll take a look at some of the region’s must-see sights so that you know what to programme into the SatNav.

Hólmavík

Hólmavík is where you’ll find the Icelandic Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft. Though some of its contents are stomach-churning and gruesome, the collection is a captivating insight into the past. Superstitious citizens turned to mythology and folklore in an era when science was inadequate and couldn’t supply satisfactory explanations for events and happenings. Their unfortunate neighbours paid a heavy price for unchecked religious fervour, ignorance, and persecution. Luckily, we live in more enlightened times, so this museum will entertain as much as it will horrify those who visit.

Arctic Fox Centre

On your way into Ísafjörður, the capital of the Westfjords, stop for a nose around the Arctic Fox Centre. This Súðavík gem gives you the chance to learn more about one of the cutest creatures found in Iceland through information boards and other exhibits. You’ll learn how they live in the wild and the kinds of ways they interact with people. To have the best odds of seeing one in open countryside, you should book a boat trip over to Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, but note that the population is small and sightings of Iceland’s only native land mammal aren’t guaranteed.

Ísafjörður

If you’re travelling in the Westfjords for any length of time, chances are you’ll find yourself in Ísafjörður at some point. For a start, it’s got the biggest choice of accommodation and restaurants of any settlement in the region. Cultural, music, and sporting events also take place here, largely in the summer. You’ll also want to pay a visit to the Westfjord Heritage Museum, sometimes referred to as the Maritime Museum, which fills in the back story of this trading place, port, and now tourist hub.

Gamla Bókabúðin in Flateyri

The small village of Flateyri, only a twenty-minute drive from Ísafjörður, is famous across Iceland for being the home of the country’s oldest bookstore. The Gamla Bókabúðin was opened in 1914. Inside, you’ll find some of the original fittings, as well as the first ledger that was used to record sales by hand. The place has some delightfully old-fashioned quirks.

For instance, you can still buy secondhand books here by weight. The backroom retains the furnishings it’s had since 1950, where the owner lived from 1915 until he passed away. Whether you’re an avid reader or not, don’t pass up the opportunity to call in.

Þingeyri

Another little place worth your attention is Þingeyri. In summer, follow your nose to a charming café called Simbahöllin, where you can stuff your face with waffles laden with cream and rhubarb jam. Working off the calories couldn’t be easier: the owners will arrange a horse riding tour through the Sanda valley from their stables just outside the village.

If you prefer to explore independently, then they can rent you a fatbike so you can ride out on your own. From leisurely pedals along the fjord to the more challenging Svalvogur circuit, there’s a trail with your name on it.

Jón Sigurðsson Museum

Jón Sigurðsson was the leader of the Icelandic Independence Movement. From the days of the Norse settlers, through Norwegian and then Danish rule into the 20th century, Iceland wasn’t its own boss. In the 19th century, Sigurðsson sought to change that, campaigning in Copenhagen for the Icelanders’ right to self-governance and home rule.

Though he didn’t argue for full autonomy, he did help to get the ball rolling, and it’s the reason the country celebrates its independence on 17th June – Sigurðsson’s birthday. Learn more about his life and work at this museum overlooking lovely Arnarfjörður, where there’s a recreation of his turf-roofed home.

Dynjandi

Dynjandi is the Westfjords’ most recognisable waterfall. The water cascades in seven steps, and the bottom tier is significantly wider than those higher up. It’s this that gives the waterfall its nickname: Bridal Veil Falls. Beneath it, you’ll find a succession of other waterfalls, among them Háifoss, Úðafoss, Göngufoss, Hundafoss, and Bæjarfoss. Whether you park up briefly for a selfie or take a bit longer to hike in the surrounding area, it’s not a stop you’ll want to leave off your Westfjords driving itinerary.

Icelandic Sea Monster Museum

In the small village of Bildudalur, there’s another unusual museum, this time devoted to sea monsters. Open to drop-ins from May to September, it’s worth calling ahead and seeing if they’ll open for you if you’re traveling outside that period.

The collection is focused on the four types of sea monsters that eyewitnesses claim to have spotted in the vicinity: the Fjörulalli (Shore Laddie), Hafmaður (Sea Man), Skeljaskrímsli (Shell Monster), and the Faxaskrímsli (Combed Monster or Sea Horse). You’ll arrive with a healthy dose of scepticism, but will that change by the time you leave?

Samúel Jónsson's Art Farm

Leaving Bildudalur, the tarmac runs out as you follow the 619, a winding gravel track, further along the fjord. Enjoy views of snow-capped hills on either side as you close in on Samúel Jónsson's Art Farm. En route, you’ll pass Hringsdalur, known for its pagan graves that date back to Viking times.

Samúel Jónsson's Art Farm perches on the water’s edge almost as far west as you can drive. The work of this 20th-century artist, who indulged his passion post-retirement, is lauded for its naivety, and his sculptures have a childlike quality that’s quite endearing.

Garðar BA 64

The next suggestion couldn’t be more different, though arguably there’s a photogenic appeal to this rusting hulk of a shipwreck that’s marooned on a remote beach at the end of Patreksfjörður. This steam-powered whaler-turned-fishing vessel, launched in 1912, was beached when it came to the end of its useful life in 1981. Though it’s not permitted to clamber on board for safety reasons, you can touch its metal sides and imagine what it would once have been like to have gone to sea on this once magnificent vessel.

Rauðasandur

No road trip through the Westfjords could be considered complete without a visit to one of the region’s most unusual beaches. Across Iceland, all but a handful of beaches are comprised of black sand, a consequence of the volcanic landscape and the process of weathering that have broken down ancient lava flows.

Here, though, the sand is a reddish-orange, which is why its name is so apt. It stretches for 10km, an incredible contrast to the rocky shoreline of the fjords further north. As the light changes, it plays on the grains of sand – in sunlight, its warm tone is utterly spectacular.

To reach it, you’ll need to navigate a series of tight twists and turns as the gravel road drops down to sea level. Be brave – it’s absolutely worth it.

Látrabjarg

Látrabjarg is one of Iceland’s most amazing bird cliffs. Even if you’re not a twitcher, you can’t fail to be impressed at the sight of the thousands of razorbills, fulmar, guillemots, kittiwakes, and other seabirds that you encounter here. This line of cliffs stretches for 14km and at its highest point towers 441 metres above the waves. There’s no fence, and it’s a long way down, so take care not to get too near to the edge, especially if the weather’s wet and windy.

Hellulaug and Krosslaug Hot Springs

Our final suggestion is a pair of rustic roadside hot springs that overlook the water. If you’re a little stiff from being in the car all day, the warm water will help you relax. What are you waiting for? All you need is some wheels, and we know just where you can find them...